Well the rainy season is here and finding a dry place to climb is now a major challenge; apart from the dank and dingy Pixies Hole at Chudleigh, Anstey’s cove is one of the few local crags that tend to stay dry in the rain. Unfortunately most of the routes leak like a sieve after a few days of wet weather – Tuppence being almost the only exception.
I’ve been working Tuppence for just over a month now and progress is now slow to non-existent, mainly involving me falling off in the same few places:
The bottom crux: A bit of a jump from two poor holds. I try this move approximately 20 times per session with a gain of about 5mm. In a couple of years it’ll be in the bag!
The middle crux: A move off a painfully small left-hand crimp. I’ve heard that both Adrian Baxter and Gav Symonds had to train specifically for this move ... time to get strong I think.
The top crux: A massive jump. I can’t get anywhere near the hold I’m leaping to but in my dream last night I could do it easily so I’m not too worried.
All that said, the process of working a route with such funky moves is great fun, it has become a very enjoyable feature of my climbing week. I find it useful to have one route to focus on and to train for... I can go away and hang off left hand crimps for a couple of days, take a rest and get back on Tuppence ... only to find that this time I can hold on slightly longer before falling off as usual!
Time to head back down there for another session of jumping, crimping and falling...